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This itinerary was fine tuned by darjeeling-tourism.com, and we had a great trip.
22 Jan: Boarded Darjeeling Mail from Sealdah; Train was clean and punctual
23 Jan (Day 1): Reached NJP around 9 am. Station usual melee of thousands of tourists, hundreds of drivers, all trying to connect with each other. Met our driver Samuel sent by Jayanti Travels (9434076821). Car hiring from NJP to Morgan House: Rs 4,000.
Weather was crisp, roads empty as it was a holiday. Extremely good road condition. Reached Salugara forests in an hour and all our city blues were behind us. Breakfast at Gautam's by the Coronation Brisge. Great view and wide choice of food; though better to stick to Maggi/ Momo/ Black Coffee if you are prone to car-sickness
Had asked for a Sumo though we were only four and soon our decision was vindicated. Road condition very poor due to Sevoke-Rangpo railway line construction. Trees had turned grey with dust. Stopped at Rambi Bazar for a view.
Reached Teesta Bazaar around 12.30 beyond which roads are very good once more. Rolled into Morgan House around 2 pm. Old world charm, wonderful compound and courteous staff. Lady at reception so good to advise us to wash up & take lunch first before completing formalities. Shown into much talked about Room #101. Room size is thrice that of modern hotels with proportionate bathroom. Views from the glass windows facing East and North are marvellous.
Went out in afternoon for walk to Durpin Viewpoint (downhill after army quarters), Durpin monastery (uphill from Army Circle) and Army Golf Course (in front of Morgan house) whose canteen serves wonderful Dosa and Coffee. Evening & Dinner at MH. Tips: Order your snacks and dinner by 4 pm.
Day 2: Day trip to Rishop and Lava; skipped Loleygaon as Canopy Walk is not functional. On the way back went up to Deolo Park and spent an hour. Paragliding agents are swarming there. Pick and choose an agent wisely and ask to show government approval certificate. Tips: Toilet at Deolo very dirty.
Day 3: Started early around 8 am, reached Lover's Meet view point on Peshok Road around 10. Excellent view and the air is already cool. Tea break, sunny and clear blue sky, road through Peshok Tea Gardens is fabulous.
Tinchuley viewpoint did not meet expectations, crowded and the tea gardens looked uncared for, rather get a little ahead and take the mountain roads for a quiet little walk among chirping birds and orchids. Towards Lamahatta, had lunch at a Mom & Pop store in Lopchu - homely food and bakery items, clean toilets.
Reached Lamahatta Eco Park around 2 pm. Half an hour to enjoy the walk among Pines is enough unless you want to trek all the way to the Holy Pokhori.
By 3.30 pm we were at New Ghum Monastery (Samteng Choeling). Very disappointed at the atmosphere there, a let down after Lava. Did not spend more than 15 minutes.
By 4.30 we were at Batasia Loop. Usual crowd, best view points taken over by Telescope-wallahs and Hire-a-dress-Click-a-photo people. Walked along the tracks to go round the loop.
By 5.30 we were at Upper Clubside Taxistand and got into Hotel Dekeling, the best hotel in town for middle budget families (again as suggested by darjeeling-tourism). The climbing of 49 stairs is more than compensated by the warmth of Mrs Sangi and family and the superb view from the top floor lounge.
Dropped baggage, freshened up and had a stroll along Mall Road. Dinner at hotel ? reasonably priced, tasty, home style food.
Day 4: woke up at 4 for the Tiger Hill trip. Chandra (9775860022) in his Innova took us up. It was already crowded at 5 am and we had to get down and walk the last 10 minutes in pitch darkness occasionally cut through by mobile torches. People thronged the eastern balcony for a sunrise view (the new gallery under construction also faces east).
We inched towards the northern railing to look at His Majesty, the Kanchenjunga. The changing colours of it kept us mesmerised for the next hour. Cold was biting and my right hand which was operating the cam was almost blue after it.
Was stopped on way back at Batasia Loop for the Republic Day marathon, scampered to the stall selling Pakoras just below the ticket counter and could get some, egged on participants aged 8 to 80 while munching on the pakoras (must have, as mentioned by darjeeling-tourism, and they finish really fast), got back to hotel, had our bath and to Glenary's for a sumptuous English Breakfast.
Walked till Governor's House, watched Saraswati Puja at Bhanu Bhavan - strolled down to Railway Station for a Steam heritage Joyride to Ghum and back. Enjoyed thoroughly except that kids pointed out the environmental damage from the smoke. Museum at Ghum is rich and informative but needs better organisation and wider space. Afternoon at Mall and customary shopping.
Day 5: Ashmita Treks and Tours (as suggested by darjeeling-tourism, they are the best) took us for a Landrover tour to Tonglu and Tumling, started around 8 am. Subhas Tamang himself accompanied us. The road through was magnificent.
Innova went up till Chitrey. Hot soup at Hawk's Nest and on to the Raj-year Landrover. Mixed trekking and riding till we reached Tonglu. The view from the top was breathtaking. Went for an invigorating walk along the meadows from Tonglu to Tungling. The half hour walk was amazing. Hopped in to Nepal (the road separates India from Nepal and there are Borer Guards along the road who take down your ID proof and ensure that you get back, so carry Aadhaar/Voter ID).
Lunch at Shikhar Lodge, conservation efforts by the owner - Neela didi to everyone, is laudable. Reached back to hotel around 4 pm after visiting Old Ghum Monastery on the way. This has a forlorn look, but still better vibes than the new one.
Evenning at Mall and dinner at Dekeva's. Small, cozy and wonderful food. Do have their Hot Lemon Ginger Honey after your meal. You will fall in love with it and would want to come back just for it.
Day 6: Our local sight-seeing day. Ropeway took away three hours of it which in hindsight was a mistake and you are well advised to skip it. The views are nothing special. Rather spend these hours on the benches at the Mall or go for a heritage walk (check darjeeling-tourism for suggestions).
The Zoo was great, so was HMI. Especially the Treeline walk and Zip line at HMI is a must do for kids and grown-ups alike.
Today was our farewell dinner at Glenary's. Sit inside, in the main hall, near the fireplace and you will have a wonderful experience. There is live music and the old numbers churned out will bring back memories. Needless to say, Food is excellent.
Day 7: Started around 8 am for our journey downhill. Stopped at Maragaret's Deck for Breakfast and one last fling at the cool crisp mountain air before the heat & dust of the plains overpower us. Reached NJP around 1.00, on time for the Vande Bharat exp, and by 11 pm we were at home.
(Number of persons: 4; Dates of Travel: 22-29 Jan; Expense: Train: 11000, Joyride: 6000, Car: 20000, Stay: 25000, Food: 21000, Tonglu trip: 12000; approx 25000 per head)
Rajarshi (January 2025)
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