Zuluk and Historic Silk Route
Zuluk (also spelt as Dzuluk) is a tiny village settlement at an altitude of 10,100ft. It's located in lower Himalayas of Eastern Sikkim on the historical old Silk Route which once connected India with Tibet.
On the Indian side, the Silk route starts further up from Kalimpong in Pedong and goes through places like Rhenock, Rongli, Zuluk and northward to Nathang valley and Kupup. Finally Jelepla Pass was used to reach beautiful Chumbi valley of Tibbet and then Lhasa.
Till the first half of 20th century before the Chinese invaded Tibet, this old Silk Route was used heavily to trade silk, fur and wool between Tibet and India, and hence such name of the route.
But since 1962, Jelepla Pass has been closed. Now the official corridor between India and China in this area is Nathula Pass which is not far away.
Zuluk is only few kilometers away from the China border and has a base of Indian army. It's a small mountain hamlet with a population of about 700 most of who are Nepali. All these people had migrated to this place in search of better living as it lied on the Silk Route. But now that the trade is gone, and the land is infertile for any farming, they mostly survive on construction of roadways. But the nature has been liberal in blessing the place with huge tourism potential. The villagers have slowly started realizing that and extending their homes to tourists as home stays.
Zuluk can be reached both from Kalimpong (along the old Silk Route) as well as Gangtok. The route from Gangtok is via Tsomgo (Changu) lake, Baba Mandir and then loops back via Kupup and Nathang valley to Zuluk. And it takes about 4 hours to reach Zuluk from both Kalimpong and Gangtok.
What to see in Zuluk
Zuluk is the transit point to visit so many other beautiful places around including all the points on the Silk Route. Zuluk by itself is only a small village with handful families. There is a small nag (king cobra) temple here with a cave like structure. For views of Kanchenjunga snow peaks, lovely lakes, passes and other wonderful mountain landscapes, you need to take day trips from Zuluk and go further north towards Kupup.
A great place for sunrise views over Kanchenjunga is Thambi Viewpoint which is about 14kms from Zuluk, at an altitude of 11,200ft and comes on the road to Lungthung (towards Kupup).
There are 32 sharp hairpin bends (or zig zags) along the way which is an engineering marvel by itself. You can get the sight of this amazing zig zags on the mountain slopes from vantage points near Zuluk and also from the view point itself.
View of the peaks, as the sun rises is simply mind blowing. You can see amazing change of colors on the dazzling peaks as the sun rises from the opposite end. This nature's spectacle alone is good enough a reason to visit Zuluk. If you go further up to Lungthung (which is another 10kms away), you can actually get a better view of the entire range. This is considered the best sunrise viewpoint along the Silk Route (but you need to start earlier as it's further away from Zuluk).
Further up at an altitude of 13,500ft you reach the wonderful Nathang Valley. This is where the yak herders from Tibet used to graze their yaks when the Jelepla Pass was open. This beautiful valley changes its colors in different seasons, turning to golden when the grasses dry up in autumn, to dazzling snowy white in the winter when it gets covered under thick snow, and to a blanket of colors when the flowers bloom in monsoon.
You can see a long row of Buddhist prayer flags fluttering on top of a ridge here. There is also a monastery, a temple and several streams that flow through the valley. There are several traditional and modern homestays that have come up in Nathang valley offering electricity, European style toilets, hot water, and fresh homemade food (both veggie & non-veg).
Further up, you can take a short diversion and visit Old Baba Mandir. This is where the samadhi of Baba Harbhajan has been built on a bunker where he was posted while in Indian army. Although he is dead, it is strongly believed by the army personnel here that his spirit is still around and guards the Indo China border. Chinese guards have also confirmed having seen a vigilant man at night on the border.
Since it requires climbing of several steps to reach up to the bunker making it difficult for general tourists, a New Baba Mandir
has been built on the roadside near Tsomgo Lake.
Further along you will reach Kupup valley and the Kupup Lake at an altitude of 13,066ft. From Kupup lake, other than spectacular views of Kanchenjunga peaks, you also get lovely views of Tukla Valley and even Menmecho Lake. The Kupup lake has a shape of an elephant and therefore known also as Elephant Lake. World's highest golf course known as Yak Golf Course is also located in Kupup. This 18-hole golf course is recorded in Guinness Book of World Records.
Soon after crossing Yak Golf Course, you can see the sight of Jelepla Pass which connects India with Lhasa of Tibet. The pass lies at an altitude of 14,000ft. It is now closed following the Indo China war. 'La' in Tibetan means a pass, and the word 'Jelepla' means 'Beautiful Level Pass' - indeed this pass is a wonderful pass on a level land.
Where to stay in Zuluk
There are no proper hotels in Zuluk or for that matter in the entire upper reaches of the Silk Route. Several basic homestays have come up that are run by the villagers. They offer comfortable rooms with electricity, attached toilet of European style, homemade food and lots of warm blankets. People here are not only simple, they are also very friendly and helpful. Other than Indian vegetarian dishes, they also make chicken, eggs and noodles.
While returning from Zuluk to Kalimpong, you can also plan to spend a night at Aritar and enjoy the beautiful manmade lake surrounded by trees. You can also stay at Makhim nearby. There are nice homestays with basic facilities.
Best time to visit
Zuluk experiences extreme cold climate in winter. From December onwards it starts snowing and from January onwards the roads often get blocked due to heavy snow. Temperature becomes sub-zero. And it remains under snow usually till April-end.
May to July is the monsoon time when you won't get much views due to fog and cloud. However August to October is the best time to visit Zulik when the entire place gets covered with colorful wild flowers, sky remains clear and views of the mountains are wonderful.
How to visit Zuluk and the Silk Route
You can reach Zuluk and the silk route via Gangtok or Kalimpong. From NJP station or Bagdogra airport, Gangtok is about 4 hours, while Kalimpong is about 2 hours. From Gangtok the route is via Tsomgo Lake, New Baba Mandir, Kupup, Nathang Valley and then to Zuluk. It takes about 4 hours drive. From Kalimpong, the route is via Pedong, Rhenock, Aritar, Rongli, Phadamchen and then to Zuluk. It also takes about 4 hours by car.
Actually it is a single continuous route (Jawaharlal Nehru Road) that starts from Gangtok area and goes all the way up via Tsomgo Lake, Baba Mandir, Sarathang (where the approach-way to Nathula starts) etc to Kupup and then down towards Kalimpong via places like Nathang valley, Zuluk, Rongli, Rhenock, Pedong etc. So if you take a vehicle from Gangtok, you can go all the way to Kalimpong via this route or the other way round.
Along the way you can also visit Tsomgo Lake
, New Baba Mandir
. A day trip is not advisable from either Gangtok or Kalimpong. You should plan to stay overnight at Zuluk if coming from Kalimpong, or at Nathang Valley if coming from Gangtok, and then visit the places by car on a day trip. Due to high altitude and low oxygen level, it is advisable that you acclimatize yourself on the first day to avoid breathing problems.
A separate permit is required for tourists visiting Zuluk and the places along this route that falls in Sikkim. You need to carry passport size photos and photo id proof (in original) to get your permit. While approaching from Gangtok, you can get this permit from Sikkim Tourism Office at Gangtok. Your tour operator can get it done. You should hand-over the documents to the tour operator one day in advance.
While approaching Zuluk or the Silk route from Kalimpong, you can get the permit along the way at Rongli SDPO Office (open till 2pm on weekdays, 11am on Saturday, closed on Sunday). Your driver can help with the process. It usually takes about 30 minutes to get the permit, sometimes less. You should take a large vehicle like a Scorpio or a Jeep. Foreigners are not allowed to visit Zuluk for border restrictions.
T.M. Nathan (October 2016)
Dear Mr.Raj, I am a Malaysian and am travelling with a group of 20 friends, most of whom are Seniors ( 60+). I would like to visit Zuluk as part of my 9 day tour of Kolkata, Gangtok, Kalimpong & Darjeeling. As we would like very much to experience snowfall, I included Zuluk in my itinerary. I have been informed that being foreigners,we will not be allowed to gain access to Zuluk even with the Restricted Area Permit (RAP) or Inner Line Permit (ILP). Is this true?
We are due to travel between 18th Feb 2017 till 27th Feb 2017. I feel that the journey is not worth it without a visit to Zuluk. Please advise as I am being given conflicting views on Zuluk. Another point of clarification - Are the dates chosen in Feb 2017 ideal without much fog?
Raj (darjeeling-tourism.com) October 2016
Hello, Zuluk requires a special permit and not the usual Restricted Area Permit (interchangeably called Inner Line Permit). Being part of east Sikkim and close to the border of Tibet (which is part of China), it is quite unlikely that foreigners would be given permission to visit Zuluk just like Nathula Pass. In any case around February the route to Zuluk is likely to be closed due to heavy snow. February is otherwise okay for other places (will be very cold though), there could be fog at times but you should also get enough clear sky.